How to Teach a Dog to Lie Down: 3 Methods That Work
The quickest way to teach a dog to lie down is luring: from a sit, hold a treat at their nose, move it straight down to the floor between their paws, then slowly out along the floor. The moment their elbows touch down, say "Yes!" and reward. If luring doesn't work, capture (reward every time your dog lies down on their own) or shape (reward each small step toward the floor). Practice on a mat rather than a cold floor. Once your dog drops easily, add the word "Down," then fade the treat from your hand in four stages.
First, a quick word on words. Most people search for how to teach a dog to "lay down," while the grammar books say "lie down." Your dog won't mind either way. Pick one word, make sure everyone at home uses it, and you're set. We'll use "down" for short.
Down matters more than it looks. It's the calm position: the starting point for long stays, for settling at a café, and for tricks like roll over.
Three ways to teach down
- Luring: a treat guides your dog's nose, and their body follows. Fast, and works for most dogs.
- Capturing: you wait for your dog to lie down on their own, then mark and reward. Slow at first, but the behavior is entirely your dog's idea, and it tends to stick.
- Shaping: you reward small steps toward the full down: head lowering, front end dipping, elbows on the floor. Great with a clicker, and a good brain workout.
Which method fits your dog?
There's no single best method. Use this table to pick a starting point, and switch if you're stuck after a few sessions.
| Your dog… | Start with | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Loves food, follows your hand | Luring | You'll likely see a down in the first session |
| Follows the treat, but stands up instead | Luring under your leg, or shaping | Your leg makes a "tunnel" that encourages crawling down |
| Is a small dog | Luring on a sofa or step, or capturing | Less bending for you, an easier angle for them |
| Gets overexcited around food | Capturing | Rewards calm moments, which you want anyway |
| Already knows a clicker or marker | Shaping | Your dog understands "try something, get feedback" |
| Is a puppy | Capturing plus short lures | Puppies lie down often, so free reps are everywhere |
| Avoids lying down near people | Capturing, on a mat, at a distance | Lets your dog choose with no pressure |
Luring, step by step
- Start from a sit, on a rug or mat. Many dogs refuse cold tiles or wood.
- Treat at the nose. Let your dog sniff it so they're locked on.
- Straight down. Move the treat slowly down to the floor, right between their front paws, as if it were sinking.
- Then slowly out. Draw it a few inches along the floor, away from them. Their front end follows and the back end settles.
- Mark the elbows. The instant both elbows touch the floor: "Yes!" and give the treat low, so they stay down to eat it.
- Release and repeat. Say your release word, let them get up, and do 5-8 reps. Stop while it's still easy.
If your dog stands up: you're probably moving out too fast. Pause at the floor and wait. Or sit on the floor with one knee raised and lure your dog under your leg: to follow the treat, they have to lower themselves.
If your dog only bows: reward the bow a few times (front end down is progress), then hold out a little longer for the back end.
From lure to word
A dog who only lies down when a treat is in your hand hasn't learned the cue yet; they've learned to follow food. Fade the lure in four stages, spending a few sessions on each.
Add the word "Down" during stage 2: say it once, then give the hand signal. Over time, the word starts to predict the signal, and your dog begins moving as soon as they hear it.
Keep sessions short and spread out. In a study of dogs learning a new task, shorter, spaced sessions led to better learning than long blocks of training (Demant et al., 2011). A handful of downs before each meal adds up fast.
All the basics, one short lesson a day
HeyFido's video curriculum covers the basic cues step by step with positive reinforcement, then moves on to tricks. Streaks and XP make it easy to show up every day.
7-day free trial · cancel anytime.
Level up: from a stand, at a distance, anywhere
Down from a stand
If you always start from a sit, your dog may think "down" means "sit first, then lie down." Practice from a stand: lure the treat down between the front paws and slightly back toward the chest. Many dogs fold their front end first, like a bow, then drop the back.
Down at a distance
Take one step back, give the cue, and if your dog drops, walk in and reward low. Add distance slowly. If your dog walks toward you before going down, shorten the distance again. Tossing the treat behind your dog after a successful down also helps keep them from creeping forward.
Down in new places
Indoors on a rug is level one. The garden, a hallway, the vet's waiting room and a park bench are all new levels. Expect a dip each time you change places, bring better treats, and accept a quicker, less polished down at first.
A settled down
Once your dog drops reliably, reward when they shift onto one hip or rest their head. That's the relaxed version you want at a café or while you work. A mat they love makes this easier, and you can pair it with calm brain games like a lick mat.
When your dog won't go down
| Problem | Possible reason | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Follows the treat but never lies down | Lure moves too fast, or out too early | Slow down, pause at the floor, try the leg tunnel |
| Won't lie down on the floor | Cold, hard or slippery surface | Use a mat, rug or towel; practice on grass |
| Goes down, pops straight up | Treat delivered too high, or released by you without meaning to | Deliver treats on the floor; use a clear release word |
| Only works with food in your hand | The lure became the cue | Work through the four fading stages |
| Does it at home, not outside | New place, new distractions | Start again with a lure outside; better treats |
| Seems reluctant or slow, especially an older dog | Discomfort when lying down or getting up | Ask your vet; use a thick, soft mat |
| Avoids lying down near you | Feeling unsure or vulnerable | Capture instead, give space, never push or pull |
One thing to skip: pushing on your dog's shoulders or pulling their front legs out. It's uncomfortable, many dogs brace against it, and it teaches nothing about choosing the position. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior recommends reward-based training only.
What's next
With down in place, you're ready for stay and for floor tricks such as roll over. For more ideas sorted by difficulty, see our list of tricks to teach your dog, or go back to the full step-by-step plan on how to train a dog.
FAQ
Is it "lie down" or "lay down" for dogs?
Grammatically it's "lie down", but your dog doesn't care. What matters is that everyone in the house uses the same word. Many people simply say "Down."
Why won't my dog lie down when I lure them?
Common reasons: the treat moves too fast, the floor is cold or hard, the room is too busy, or your dog feels uneasy lying down near people. Slow the lure, use a mat, practice somewhere quiet, or try capturing instead.
Should I teach down from a sit or a stand?
Most people start from a sit because it's easier to lure. Once your dog understands the cue, practice from a stand too, so "down" doesn't secretly mean "sit, then down."
How do I stop my dog only lying down when I have a treat?
Fade the lure in stages: lure with an empty hand and reward from your pocket, then shrink the hand signal, then say the word alone. Keep rewarding after the down, just not from the hand that cues it.
Can I push my dog into a down?
It's better not to. Pushing on the shoulders or pulling the legs can be uncomfortable and makes many dogs resist. Reward-based methods are recommended by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, and they teach your dog to choose the position themselves.
Sources
- American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (2021). Position Statement on Humane Dog Training.
- Demant H., Ladewig J., Balsby T.J.S., Dabelsteen T. (2011). The effect of frequency and duration of training sessions on acquisition and long-term memory in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 133(3-4), 228-234. doi:10.1016/j.applanim.2011.05.010